Surfing

Waiting for the one, the wave, the sun bakes my skin to a golden brown, leathery crisp. There's salt in the air, and in my hair, as I bob up and down on my board. Another wave rolls in. This one bigger than the last, but still -- not the one.
Surfing requires patience. Like most things in life. It's about calculated risk managed by gut instinct. An oceanic sixth sense. Feeling the wave before it even starts to crest. Remember -- they come in sets. So let the first one go. It looks good. There's no denying that. But let it go. Same with the second. Sit tight. Enjoy the air. Taste the salt. Inhale it. Let your feet dangle freely. Feel the ocean cradling you. The sun toasting you. Let instinct take over.
When it does -- paddle. Paddle as if your life depended on it. It's more digging than swimming, really. Faster. Faster. Feel the wave start to carry you. Then --
Pop up!
Don't hesitate. Those who do tend to fall flat on their faces. While surfing, especially.
Pop up!
Keep your knees bent. Balanced. Let the wave do the work. Ride it until it fizzles ashore.
While waiting for the next set, I watch a pair of youngsters try to catch every wave that rolls in. No patience at all.
But they'll learn. As we all do from short-lived satisfactions and wipe-outs.